All posts by HealthyLocs

Annie Minerva Turnbo Malone. I speak your name!

It’s around 2:30am and I couldn’t let another night go by without getting my thoughts and feelings out about what we have all been on social media talking about in the black hair community. The Netflix movie/series that was released over the weekend. Self Made, “inspired by” the life of Madam CJ Walker.

I have known about Annie Malone since the late 1990s. Back then learning about her and Madam CJ Walker (Sarah Breedlove) went hand in hand. And that was before I knew my life path would lead me to be a loctician/natural hair care professional. So I don’t understand how in the age of google and in the same year Hair Love won an Oscar, we could end up with such a unnecessarily negative fictionalized version of the legacy between Annie Malone & Madam CJ Walker. Ok, obviously I understand how we got here. But I guess what I’m trying to say is that I’m disappointed and heartbroken that it was allowed to happen. Not disappointed in the cast and crew (even though some of them blatantly ignored inquiries about how Annie Malone would be portrayed before the movie/series was released) because I know folks gotta eat, so get money. But I’m disappointed in those who knowingly put the lies in and then hid behind “inspired by” so they wouldn’t have to be or feel held accountable for what they did.

When I first heard that the movie/series was being made, my first thought was “I wonder if they will include Annie Malone in the story?”. So when someone told me the trailer was out I was excited to see it! When I saw the trailer for the series I was in my feelings and questioned whether or not I still wanted to see it. Because I was like there’s no way that the woman in the clip doing Mrs Walkers hair is supposed to be Annie Malone. NO WAY! When something is inspired by or based on the life of a person we know that some things won’t be right and exact. But we expect most of the truth to be in there with a little flare added. What we got though….

Below are a few pictures of Annie Turnbo Malone

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Image result for annie malone
Image result for annie malone

She was the first black female millionaire. A fact that is continually disregarded and overlooked because Madam CJ Walker was listed as in the Guinness Book of World Records as the first even though she wasn’t. This fact is important as we go on about the movie/series.

Below is a picture of the actress Carmen Ejogo dressed as “Addie Monroe” in the series.

Image result for self made addie monroe

Now in the words of Ed Lover, C’mon Son! First of all the casting department knew full well that this looked NOTHING like Annie Malone. And I understand that because they changed her name in the movie to Addie Monroe, they felt no need to get someone who actually looked close to Mrs Malone. This was clearly done on purpose because they needed to cast someone to fit the bold face lie of a narrative that there was some sort of light skinned vs dark skinned beef between Annie Malone and Madam CJ Walker. Again I don’t fault Carmen Ejogo for this because she was doing the job she was hired to do. It was wildly irresponsible to even have this as part of the history between the two women, even in a fictionalized version, when it was never brought up before this movie in real life. It was never part of the narrative because in real life the two women from all pics available were close to the same complexion, even in black and white photos. So that kind of argument wouldn’t have made any sense. They weren’t enemies at all even though that is what was portrayed in the movie/series. So why in 2019/2020 would you feel the need to bring up this same tired trope when it didn’t need to be in there at all ?

Ok, on to lie number 2. As I stated earlier Annie Malone was the factual first black female millionaire. In the movie/series they tried to portray Mrs Malone as jealous of Mrs Walker. But this simply wasn’t true. And anyone who takes the time to read all of the information available will see that. In spite of what the movie tried to portray, Walker was a student of Mrs Malone and DID sell products as an agent for Poro product line. It’s listed in the Wiki of Walker and it’s documented in books that have no problem telling the truth. Now as of today someone snuck that lie from the movie into the wiki of Annie Malone and I’m hoping the ancestors wake them up out of their sleep to fix it. I took a screen shot of each.

Here is a section from the wiki of MCJW

Here is a section from the wiki of AMTM with the lie in it.

By the time Mrs Malone and Mrs Walker came into contact with each other, Mrs Malone was already successful with her Poro product line. Everything Mrs Walker knew, she learned from working under Mrs Malone. Some of the things they tried to insinuate Mrs Walker coming up with in the movie/series were actually facts from the life of Mrs Malone. Yet in the movie/series they tried to make it seem as if Mrs Malone wasn’t as successful as she truly was and that she was jealous of Mrs Walker’s success. Which simply IS NOT TRUE. At no point was Mrs Malone jealous that Mrs Walker went on to do her own thing. The disagreement that the 2 women had wasn’t over skin tone. It was over products. And the fact that Mrs Walker “improved” the formula she stole from Mrs Malone is another lie. Here is why. If you take the time to do research and not just believe this movie/series, you will learn that the disagreement they had was over how to straighten the natural hair of black women. Mrs Malone wanted to only use natural ingredients along with a hot comb to straighten the hair. Mrs Walker wanted to add lye to the mix, which was glossed over in the movie/series. This is not a slight to Mrs Walker. But at no point in the history of black hair has adding lye to a product improved it or made it healthy for our hair or our bodies. I’m sure at the time this was an idea that she thought was good. So I’m not mad at her for that. But I am mad at the movie/series for continually trying to drive the point home that she “improved” Mrs Malone’s formula after she stole it and left the Poro company.

I have seen a few hair care professionals who I admire doing Instagram live talks about this project and pretending they really didn’t know much about Mrs Malone and acting like information about her was impossible to find. It was obvious that they weren’t being completely honest and without being blatant about it had chosen a side in this issue. This to me was not necessary and very disappointing. Every single black woman in business, especially black hair care professionals/product owners, stand on the shoulders of Annie Malone. Every single one. Including Mrs Walker.

A so called issue that has been brought up during these discussions online, is the that the reason we know more about Mrs Walker and not Mrs Malone is because Mrs Walker had a daughter who adopted a child and the decedents of that child have been keeping the legacy of Mrs Walker alive. While Mrs Malone did not have children and therefore had no one to tell her story. Mrs Malone not having anyone to tell her story isn’t true. She has a number of nieces and nephews who are alive and well who have been keeping her story alive. And there are books available about the life of Mrs Malone available on Amazon. One is, A Friend to All Mankind”:Mrs. Annie Turnbo Malone and Poro College. And the other is, Story of Pride, Power and Uplift: Annie T. Malone. The Annie Malone Historical Society are working diligently to keep Annie’s legacy alive and to educate those who don’t know of her on their website www.anniemalonehistoricalsociety.org. You can also learn more about Mrs Malone by visiting https://freemaninstitute.com/poro.htm. Both sites have books available that you can purchase on the life and legacy of Annie Malone. I have also seen several people from St Louis in comment sections saying that they learn about Annie Malone from birth there and that she will forever been celebrated and acknowledged for her true legacy. You can click HERE to see a link to a bio piece about her on a website which celebrates famous Missourians.

Thanks to a friend of mine I was shown a Facebook post by one of Mrs Malone’s nieces in regards to the movie/series. Here it is;

Below is a post from another one of Mrs Malone’s nieces;

This movie/series could have celebrated both women and been a monumental piece of art that was shown in homes and classrooms for years to come. But the blatant disrespect that was shown to Mrs Malone makes this something that I consider a disservice to both women and not an introduction that I would want to give anyone, young or old, to either of them. Mrs Malone and Mrs Walker could have both been lifted up and their accomplishments acknowledged. It wasn’t necessary to turn Mrs Malone into a Disney Villain in order to justify admitting that her formula was stolen. It would have been more respectful to leave her out of the project all to together versus what was done. My hope is that in the future Mrs Malone is given the movie or series she deserves and that if Mrs Walker is included, it will be done in a more graceful way than that which was given to Mrs Malone in Self Made.

Annie Minerva Turnbo Malone. I speak your name!!

Let me know what you think. Leave a comment below 🙂

Nyesha Samuel, Publisher/Writer for healthylocsblog.com

Miss Rizos Salon helps Dominican Women embrace their natural hair!!

I was scrolling social media the other day when I ran across a post on the fantastic salon Miss Rizos (Miss Curls) located in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic.  Its was started by Carolina Contreras.  She herself went through a transition from relaxed to natural and wanted to help others embrace their natural hair as well.  It is well documented that many Dominicans (not all) have a hard time embracing their African roots and do whatever they can to not be identified as of African decent.  So this ends up heavily effecting those who have darker skin and/or kinkier hair.  They are ridiculed often and their hair is called Pelo Malo (bad hair).  Carolina experienced this discrimination her self and tells the tale in the video below.

I always said that i did not want to visit DR nor contribute to their tourism industry due to the self hate issues that have plagued the community there and also due to the mistreatment of Haitians by Dominicans on the island that both countries share.  This video gave me hope and should I ever change my mind and visit DR I will definitely be visiting Miss Rizos so that i get my curls pampered and hopefully meet Carolina to tell her how proud i am of her for being a conduit for change! If you are planing a trip to DR please go support her salon 🙂 I hope that more and more Dominican women will embrace their africanity and begin their journeys to embracing their natural hair! Check out the video below and leave a comment to let me know what you think 🙂

Healthy Scalp, Healthy Locs

Nyesha Samuel, Publisher & Natural Hair Stylist for healthylocsblog.com

Natural Hair Care Ingredients Help to Achieve Beautiful Healthy Hair

In thinking of African American hair beauty, you will want to use herbal hair products with natural and/or organic ingredients to keep your hair healthy and strong. Be sure to avoid chemical and synthetic ingredients, so that you won’t be causing a build-up of unnatural product in your hair.

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Hair Beauty

 Having true hair beauty is not an accident. Genetics play a part in the way your hair tends to grow and act, but you can do some things yourself to insure that your African American hair will look its best. If you have even average hair quality, you can help your hair by using natural products. If your hair is in poor condition, it may take days or weeks to see a real difference, cowashing  and conditioning can help your hair to become healthy and shiny again.

Regular shampooing is also healthy for your hair depending on your hair type.  Over-shampooing can tend to pull oils from your hair that it needs to maintain hair beauty if you have type 3a-4c hair. You can use different shampoos and see which one works best with your hair’s pH balance. Alternating shampoos may give you the best results. Conditioners can be varied each week, as well. You can help your hair’s health and vibrancy by using conditioners with different pH levels, in an effort to balance your own.

Over-brushing your hair and over-styling is also damaging to your hair at the basic level. African American hair beauty depends on brushing that is adequate to distribute the oils, but you may damage the ends if you brush too much. Your hair will need trimming more often if you over-brush or over-style. I have found finger combing or finger detangling to cause the least stress on my hair.

Herbal Hair Products

Herbal hair products are designed to clean and condition your hair without harsh chemicals, synthetics and preservatives. Nature provides the earth with many herbs, flowers, roots and plants that are rich in minerals, proteins, enzymes and vitamins, which all will add to the health of your hair. Blended together, the resulting products will be a natural and organic alternative to chemicals.

Using shampoos and conditioners with no heavy metals or preservatives allow these herbal hair products to properly treat African American hair. The manufacturers of these products do not use genetically manipulated substances or mineral oils and chemicals; they use all natural ingredients to provide proper hair care.

Leave a comment and let me know what you think 🙂

Healthy Scalp, Healthy Locs

Nyesha Samuel, Publisher/Master Loctician for healthylocsblog.com

Natural Hair Care Products

You should treat your natural hair with natural hair care products that will bring out your best look. Natural shampoos and conditioners will help your hair to achieve its most luxurious look.

Image result for natural hair care

 

Natural / Organic Shampoos

 

If you are looking for products to safely and effectively clean your African American hair, you’ll want to select an all natural shampoo. Organics are an excellent way through which you can give your scalp and hair a natural cleaning. Natural products are abundant on the market, but be sure to read the label ingredients and make sure the product you buy is free of chemical additives.

Beauty product manufacturers can’t just attach an “organic” label on their shampoo. The product has to be at least seventy percent organic in order to truly be an organic choice. Some organic shampoos may be difficult to lather, because the ingredient that helps build a lather is not a natural one. This ingredient, sodium lauryl sulfate, may dry out your scalp and your hair, and is the reason why your eyes burn if you get shampoo in them while you’re washing your hair. It’s not that hard to get used to less lather if it means healthier hair.

Natural shampoos for African American hair will add nutrients to your hair in ways that are gentle for your scalp and hair. Jojoba oils and coconut oils can be helpful ingredients in an herbal shampoo. Organics and herbals treat your hair to great cleansing with no harmful effects.

 

Herbal Conditioners

Hair conditioning with natural hair care products for African American hair is important for your overall look, and for the health of your hair and scalp. Natural ingredients can give you excellent results, and you can make your own products at home that can be beneficial as well.

Knowing or learning how to best care for your hair will probably involve using natural hair care products, because they are safer for your hair and gentler on your scalp. If you choose to add color to your hair, use an herbal or natural hair color product, since these aren’t harmful. Select a hair style or cut that flatters the lines of your face. Ask a stylist to help you define the type of cut would be most flattering for you. Seek out knowledgeable friends and stylists to help you select natural hair care products that will show off your hair to its best advantage.

Leave a comment and let me know what you think 🙂

Healthy Scalp, Healthy Locs

Nyesha Samuel, Master Loctician and Publisher for healthylocsblog.com

Natural Hair, Locs and Braids – Should you be told how to wear your hair in schools and job environments?

Natural Hair
Natural Hair

The politics of black women’s hair has been a hot button issue for decades. The legacy of slavery and white supremacy means that, on an near-global scale, kinky or frizzy black hair has been systematically maligned and devalued, while European straight hair has been systematically lauded and ‘normalized’.

In the nineteen sixties and seventies, following the civil rights movement, the Afro emerged as a potent symbol of the ‘Black is Beautiful’ mantra, but by the end of the eighties, jheri curls and relaxers had firmly replaced the Afro as the styling choice of the majority of black women.

In the last 15 years, however, an evolution has taken place. Increasing numbers of black women have joined those sisters who had always ‘bucked the trend’, and are embracing and celebrating the kink: black women are falling in love with their natural hair. (It’s worth noting that in 2015, a market research company, Mintel, estimated that the black hair industry was worth $774 million and that relaxer sales are set to decrease by 45% by 2019.)


Rules on Wearing Natural Hair – When to Conform

We are loving our natural hair, and we are ready to staunchly defend it. The fight has been long and hard, and the battle still ensues. So does anyone have the right to tell us how we should wear our natural hair? Frankly, yes.

Uniformed institutions such as the military have that right. The idea of a uniform is to equalize members and to homogenize the ‘unit’ into an identity. Want to wear your hair your way, all day? The military may not be for you. A cursory glance at a website owned by the US Navy has photographs and clear instructions on the authorized length and styling of hair.

Women of every ethnicity are required to conform to the same guidelines. Regardless of texture, hair can be worn open as long as is no longer than two inches. The Navy also allows for braids, cornrows, wigs and weaves on duty as long as they are styled, like other long hair styles, into a bun.  The black natural styles shown are like those that African-American women wear voluntarily in civilian life every day of the week.

What about schools? Do they have the right to legislate hairstyles? Of course. They have a right to dictate how their students present themselves. No dye jobs or Mohawks allowed? Fair enough.

When to Object to Rules on Wearing Natural Hair
The rightful objection comes when rule-setting is used insidiously to discriminate against people of color who have chosen not to replicate white “norms”. For example, if a white child is permitted to attend school with his six-inch-long hair falling across his face or brushing his shoulders, but a black child with a six-inch-long Afro or locs is barred from the same school for having ‘untidy’ or ‘unruly’ hair, then this is not about rules. This is about racism and bigotry.

Natural locs
Natural locs

If a law firm says nothing when a white woman comes to work with her long hair held off her face with a bandeau, but that same firm wants to demonstrate against a black woman coming to work with her halo of natural frizzy hair held off her face with a bandeau, we are talking racism and bigotry.

And if the black women in the office who sports relaxed hair or a straight weave are considered more ‘professional’ than the black women who rock natural twists or locs, we are again talking racism and bigotry. And this is where we should not comply.

However, the news is encouraging. Slowly, but steadily, companies are becoming more aware of the need to embrace and respect racial diversity in the workplace, and laws are constantly being made and revised to ensure this.

What of our responsibility to ourselves, as people of color? It is arrogant folly to believe or promote that that there is only one ‘way’ to be black, or to assume that all black women who relax their hair are ashamed of their heritage.

Further, every adult woman has the right to make her own style choices. The dogged promotion of the ‘them and us’ camps – the relaxed sisters versus natural sisters – is counter-productive and a distraction.

We have bigger cultural issues to confront and solve. The debate should focus first on our health. There are proven and documented risks in using chemicals of any sort on your scalp – and relaxers are among the most damaging.

The Hidden Dangers of Relaxers
Most relaxers contain a cocktail of harsh ingredients, such as sodium hydroxide (lye), parabens and phthalates. (Note: even ‘no lye’ relaxers still cause serious damage over time.) On average, women who relax their hair do so every 8 to 10 weeks – often, for decades.

It is virtually impossible to apply relaxer topically without it getting onto the scalp, and therefore into the body. Follicle damage, irreversible alopecia (baldness), endometriosis, fibroids and heart disease have all been linked to long-term use of relaxers.

Natural Braids
Braid Extensions

How to Transition to Natural Hair
If you are thinking of making a change to a healthier scalp and re-uniting with your natural hair texture, remember that there are several ways to make your transitioning journey easier. And an added bonus is that your hair maintenance costs may well come down because natural hair thrives under the care of coconut oil, Shea butter and other superb natural oils that may be obtained very affordably. The freedom from the tyranny of the relaxer is not to be under-estimated!

Love your natural hair, and watch, in wonder, as it loves you right back.

Healthy scalp, Healthy hair, HealthyLocs!

Fruity Hair Mask for Kinky, Curly, Coily Hair!

You see it on TV, movies, and magazines – the most lustrous, shiny, deliciously awesome and bouncy natural curls. You want your hair to look the same way, but don’t have the budget to put a professional stylist on your payroll.

There are many products out in the market for those of us looking to engage in natural hair care. Using a mask is only one solution. Drop the drugstore deep conditioning treatments – they don’t work as well as these do-it-yourself, all-natural hair mask ingredients. After all, why not feed your hair the same healthy foods that you feed the rest of your body?

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First, let’s go over the basics. There are key hair mask ingredients in every recipe, and each plays a very important role. So what you put into the hair mask for your kinky, curly, coily hair depends on the current health of your hair.

For example, for battling dry, damaged hair, use extra virgin olive oil and honey. Both key ingredients have restorative properties that add moisture to dry hair. If your hair is dry and dull, use honey. If it’s dry and damaged (like ramen noodles, for instance), use extra virgin olive oil.

For oily hair, use lemon as an astringent to get rid of excess oil. If you don’t want to lighten your hair color (lemon does this), you can dilute the lemon with water (use one-part lemon, two-parts water). If your hair breaks easily, add a little egg for a protein boost, which strengthens your locks.

If your hair is not too dry and not too oily, but still lacks that softness and shine, use coconut oil. If you want softer hair, use milk. If you have dandruff, a little apple cider vinegar will get rid of excess oils on the scalp and clear that flaky stuff right up.
Fruit is not only good for the body, but also for your hair. They are simply the best natural hair mask ingredients.

The next time you buy bananas, buy extra for your hair. Bananas are rich in vitamins, antioxidants, potassium, and natural oils. If you want to moisturize your hair and make it stronger to prevent breakage – and to get your curls to look bouncy – blend one or two overripe bananas with a teaspoon of coconut oil, a teaspoon of olive oil, and a tablespoon of honey. Slather the smoothie into your hair and let it settle for 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with warm water and comb through. No need to shampoo out, but a second rinse might be necessary.

If your hair is on the oily side, make a strawberry hair mask for your kinky, curly, coily hair. Strawberries are loaded with vitamin C, which works to control oil production. Simply blend a handful of fresh strawberries (7-10 for shoulder-length hair) to 1 tablespoon of coconut oil and 1 tablespoon of honey. Apply evenly to damp hair and leave on for at least 10 minutes. Rinse with warm water, and voila! You have yummy-smelling, healthy, shiny hair!

Try one of these great hair mask and then leave a comment to let me know how it worked for your hair 🙂

Healthy Scalp, Healthy Locs

Nyesha Samuel, Publisher/Master Loctician for healthylocsblog.com

The Next Great Superfood for Beautiful Black Skin and Hair – Spirulina

It is almost impossible to have healthy skin and hair without also incorporating a healthy nutritional component to your routine.  Superfoods definitely add a large group of nutrients to your body in one dose.  One of the most popular superfoods out there is spirulina. Below is a great article which delves into all the benefits that Spirulina has to offer. Leave a comment and let me know what you think 🙂

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If you’ve spent any time reading my blog post for the past 5 years, you know that I believe very strongly that nutrition plays a very important role in caring for your beautiful black skin.

So today I thought we’d take a look at Spirulina. It’s being marketed as the next great superfood. Since it’s been on the planet for thousands of years, why now? Could it be that in man’s arrogance, he actually thinks he’s discovered something new, again. With that being said …

Let’s talk about Spirulina … What is it?

Imagine … you come across a plant that’s been said to nourish your body, provide you with most of the protein you need to live, it can prevent sniffling and sneezing from allergies, reinforce your immune system, help control your blood pressure and cholesterol And help protect you from cancer. Yes, this is what they’re saying about spirulina.

Spirulina is not the average plant found in your garden. It’s often referred to as the miracle plant. It’s actually blue green algae that’s found in bodies of warm fresh water.

One of the oldest life forms on earth, Spirulina cells contain no nucleus and their walls are soft. Why is this important? Because it allows for very easy and complete digestion of the nutrients in Spirulina. Did you know that Spirulina was considered a food staple for certain people for centuries. It’s said that the Mayans and Aztecs consumed Spirulina and actually used it as a form of trade goods.

Click HERE to read more

Healthy Scalp, Healthy Locs

Nyesha Samuel, Publisher/Master Loctician for healthylocsblog.com

A Natural Alternative to Hair, Skin and Health Care Challenges – Essential Oils

Essential oils are a great addition to your natural hair and skin regimen.  They have great health benefits not just from an aromatherapy standpoint, but also from being applied to the hair and skin directly via carrier oils or creams.  Below is a great article breaking down the benefits of essential oils as well as how to properly use them.  Leave a comment and let me know what you think 🙂

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When you think of essential oils, you probably think of how great they smell or don’t smell for that matter. Although they are used to create great smelling perfumes, most essential oils don’t have a perfume type of aroma.

Essential oils are becoming an integral part of alternative modalities when it comes to health, skin and hair challenges. I’m sure you’re familiar with the basic essential oils such as Lavender, Peppermint, Tea Tree, Rose, Eucalyptus … you get the idea. What does this mean for you? For starters, you can use essential oils for your beauty, hair and health care needs.

For skin health:

Some of the best essential oils for skin health are Lavender, Rose, Jasmine and Geranium. In your cleansers, moisturizers, toners and serums by using essential oils, you can create products for yourself that you know are pure and good for you.

Lavender is a wonderful essential oil for minor burns. It can often help you prevent blisters and scars when used “neat” ( applied straight) on your skin.

Click HERE to read more

Healthy Scalp, Healthy Locs

Nyesha Samuel, Publisher/Master Loctician for healthylocsblog.com

Natural Black Hair Care – 7 of The Best Ingredients for Moisture and Growth

The right ingredients can make a world of difference when it comes to the results you get for you hair.  You should always make sure they are natural and that the blend you use promotes the right amount of moisture for your hair to grow. The article below list the 7 best ingredients to get healthy hair. Leave a comment and let me know what you think 🙂

http://healthylocsblog.com/natural-hair-care/

Everyone wants to know that they are putting the best of the best not only in their body, but also on their body. And when it comes to a woman’s hair, we want to make sure that we are putting the best ingredients into our hair in order to get the best results for moisture, shine, and growth retention.

You have to constantly be aware of what you’re putting in your hair to ensure that your hair is always in its best state. You are the one in control of the products you put on your hair. So, how do you know what the best ingredients for black hair care are?

Education is the key. You’ve got to put some time in and know for yourself what to look for and what to avoid.

Click HERE to read more.

Healthy Scalp, Healthy Locs

Nyesha Samuel, Publisher/Master Loctician for healthylocsblog.com

Going Natural In Your Work Environment!

More and more women are embracing their natural hair while at work inspite of any push back they may encounter. Thankfully there are more work environments that are relaxing their policy when it comes to us being able to freely wear our hair natural in various ways at work. The article below does a great job of addressing the topic.  Leave a comment and let me know what you think 🙂

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All to often you see women taking on a very relaxed approach to their hair and skin during the weekends, giving their tresses and skin a much-needed break.

But what happens when you decide to extend your natural look into your work environment? The sky’s the limit. There’s so much versatility when it comes to natural hairstyles.

There’s also much more information available on Natural Hair and how to care for it.

While natural hairstyles can convey many things from trends, to cultural statements or declarations of individuality … they can be styled to look extremely professional for your work environment.

Click HERE to read more.

Healthy Scalp, Healthy Locs

Nyesha Samuel, Publisher/Master Loctician for healthylocsblog.com



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