When dealing with black natural hair care it is important to find the best products for your hair, from root to tip – that will moisturize the scalp as well as the rest of your hair. Many of my clients ask me what product they should use for twisting or braiding their hair that will also keep their scalp moisturized. For me the best product for black natural hair care to accomplish this goal should include ingredients such as Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter or Mango Butter.
Shea Butter
Shea Butter is one of the best products because its made from the nuts of the Shea-Karite tree which is found in Africa. One of the most important benefits of the Shea nut is the fatty acid that gives Shea Butter its unique healing properties. Shea Butter provides moisture to damaged or dry hair from the roots to the tips, protecting and repairing the hair against brittleness, dryness and weather damage. It also absorbs completely into the scalp without clogging pores. It can be used on all hair types.
Cocoa Butter
Another popular ingredient in black natural hair care is Cocoa Butter. Cocoa butter is one of the best products that is helpful in providing moisture to the hair and scalp. It is a natural vegetable fat that contains natural antioxidant, which comes from the cacao bean.
Mango Butter
Mango Butter is also a great moisturizer that has antioxidants and has been known to protect the hair from harmful UV rays of the sun naturally. In black hair care frizz is also a major concern that mango butter helps to control.
One of the best products that perfectly blends all 3 of these butter for the ultimate in moisture, frizz control & hold is the Tropical Hair Butter by Nyraju Skin Care. This butter is a simply delicious way to get that “fresh out of the salon” look without having to pay outrageous salon prices. Perfect for styling African American natural hair, controlling curly locks, or for letting your hair down. Most hair butters contain beeswax or petroleum which can clog your pores and leave build up in your hair, but not this one.
The ingredients in this butter are all water soluble, meaning they melt upon contact with your scalp and leave your hair shiny and luxurious until it’s ready to be washed out. Tropical Hair Butter is a must have for your black natural hair care regimen. It melts upon contact, immediately releasing the precious oils and nutrients that your hair craves.
Moisture, moisture, moisture! That is the key to keeping your hair healthy during winter. The air is so cold and drying during this time. So it is vital to give your hair the proper moisture to keep it healthy.
Any sort of extreme weather can have a negative impact, but your hair most likely sees its happiest days in the summer. When the winter time hits, you are more prone to shedding and breakage due to the weather of the season pulling moisture from the hair. It also becomes much less shiny and appears lifeless instead of vibrant and bouncy.
Woe unto those who already have dry hair and scalp issues because this is the time they find their hair everywhere they don’t want it to be. Hair can often be seen in the sink, in the comb, and on clothing, as it becomes weaker and sheds.
Using natural hair care products is the best way to grow healthy hair. Winter care for natural hair deserves special attention because extra care is usually needed. You don’t have to live in a region with freezing temperatures for your hair to take notice. The protective winter hats we wear can even harm our hair. It also seems that many people tend to cover up their hair in the winter, leading them to neglect it. Staying indoors more often doesn’t mean you will escape the effects of winter, either. The heat indoors can also damage your hair. Since there is no avoiding this season for many of us, the best way to fight back is to make your hair stronger.
Our hair should be just as moisturized as our other body parts. In order to properly quench the thirst of the hair and scalp, you need to have a routine that uses an all-natural moisturizer and conditioner. The right moisturizer will keep hair hydrated and this moisture can be more easily locked in with a good sealant. Furthermore, hair that is well–conditioned is stronger and softer, making it easier to detangle and style without breaking, to keep hair healthy during winter.
Here are the four best moisturizers/conditioners for keeping your hair healthy during winter:
Castor Oil.
Unprocessed castor oil can be added to a variety of mixtures for healthier hair. It is extremely thick and a little bit goes a long way. Because of its thickness, you might want to blend it with another oil such as the ones mentioned in this article. It won’t take long before you see a difference when using this oil. Get ready to say goodbye to thin locks. The oil improves the thickness of your hair and will add shine to it to keep hair healthy during winter. The color of your hair can also be naturally deepened by castor oil. Through its antibacterial and anti-fungal properties, it can eliminate bad germs and keep them from returning.
Split ends can ruin an otherwise attractive head of hair. Instead of opting for haircuts to get rid the ends, it’s better to prevent them and castor oil does a great job of this. Its conditioning properties repair split ends and long-term treatments are recommended.
Coconut Oil.
In the summer, it protects you from the sun. During the winter, it protects hair from moisture-robbing winds and harsh temperatures. Coconut oil infuses the hair with protein. Protein will make the shaft of the hair stronger, but without it, hair won’t grow. Mix coconut oil with other natural products to enhance its properties for maximum results. The rejuvenation your scalp is treated to makes this oil one of the most popular choices for natural beauty enthusiasts. It’s lightweight so there is no oily or heavy feeling in your hair. It also doubles as a style protectant, making you less likely to damage your hair while trying to achieve a desired look to keep hair healthy during winter.
Shea Butter.
Shea butter is a staple in the beauty industry, and Shea butter works wonders on both the skin and hair. It is used to treat eczema and insect bites, along with many other issues. People with sensitivities appreciate its hypoallergenic strength and its results are astonishing. This natural butter acts as a sealant to hold in moisture and can work as the moisturizer itself to encourage growth. As an anti-inflammatory, it calms irritated scalps for a soothing effect. It also contains the perfect blend of healthy acids, and can shield your hair from harmful sun rays.
Olive Oil.
Olive oil is most healthy for hair when it’s in pure form. Color will range from champagne gold to green. This is one of best ways to tell if it has been cold-pressed. Cold pressed olive oil is always the better choice. This way, the oil will be more effective because necessary ingredients have not been cooked out of it. Olive oil will leave your hair super soft as it detoxifies the hair and the scalp to get rid of harmful impurities. It lasts a long time without going bad, so it can be bought in large quantities and can even reverse some of the effects that hormonal problems have had on the hair.
You want hair that will be beautiful year-round. By using these products, you can maintain your shine and see growth throughout the cold months of winter. Remember, it never hurts to wear your hair in long-lasting styles that will keep your hair in place without damaging it during the season. Looking for a product that contains all of the moisturizing oils from this article, try this!
Making the transition to natural hair can be a tough journey. When you are used to the results that chemicals and hot irons give you, the change can be difficult to deal with. There are so many new hair tricks you need to learn to have a rich, healthy head of hair – and one being how to best wash your natural hair.
Years of treating your hair could have hurt your hair and scalp. If you want to erase the damage and begin natural hair care, these are the do’s and don’ts for shampooing:
Don’t Wash Your Natural Hair Everyday
It’s a rookie mistake to wash your hair every single day. You may feel the instinct to let water run through your hair after a long day’s work, but over-washing can actually cause more damage. Your hair needs the natural oils that accumulate during the day. Washing too frequently will strip your hair of all the essential moisture, making it frizzier and harder to manage.
Do Shampoo Your Hair In Sections
Natural hair has the nasty tendency to break. People with normal hair usually wash their hair loose, but for those with natural Black hair, this causes breakage and tangles. The solution is to wash your hair in sections. Use braids, ties, or clips to separate the sections. Shampoo one part at a time is the best way to wash your natural hair, as it will make the process much more manageable.
Don’t Forget to Rinse Properly
Hair care can be a huge hassle. For natural hair, it can take several hours longer to wash than relaxed hair. Since the process is so long, you might not feel encouraged to dedicate your time. Do not rush through rinsing out the shampoo leftover residue can give your hair a greasy quality and make your curls limp. So, take the time to rinse after shampooing properly; the time you invest will be well worth the results.
Do Pick The Best Shampoo
When it comes to getting the best shampoo and to best wash your natural hair, you will want to choose products that contain the essential oils that your hair needs to promote healthy hair growth and shine. A lot of new natural hair products have emerged in the past few years, so there is bound to be something available for the current condition of your hair.
Do Give Yourself A Scalp Massage
The best way to clean your hair is from the roots. Many people make the mistake of concentrating on the ends of hair, and more so when they have split ends. Because the ends will get cleaned when the shampoo on your scalp travels down, don’t place all of your focus on the tips. By massaging your scalp with shampoo, you are getting at the main cause of dirty hair.
Do Follow Up With Conditioner
Shampoo isn’t the end of the natural hair washing process. You also need to use conditioner, and without an effective follow up conditioner, your hair won’t be manageable, will tangle easily and lose moisture quickly. A lot of people with natural hair opt for shea butter conditioner because it promotes extra moisture for even the driest hair.
Don’t Scrub Your Hair Or Scalp
Natural hair is more prone to breakage, therefore, you must be extra tender when caring for your hair and scalp. Avoid scrubbing your hair and scalp to prevent more breakage.
As long as you follow the tips carefully, you will not only have a breakage problem, your hair will look better than ever.
*Marcela De Vivo is a freelance health writer in California whose writing for NorthWest covers everything on hair and skin care, tech, marketing, and health. To prevent breakage, she follows these tips to keep her hair healthy and moisturized.
Stress has been known to cause many different types of disease in the body, but one that many people don’t know can be stress-induced is Alopecia Areata. Normally Alopecia is just thought of as a genetic abnormality in the immune system which can cause a hair-loss condition which usually affects the scalp. But, there are other times when Alopecia comes about due to highly stressful situations.
My friend Brandi Pettijohn experienced this stress-induced Alopecia and suggested that I do an article on the subject. Below is her story and what she went through:
Brandi’s Story
About [five years ago] I had a series of stressful events happen in my life. My father passed away, my love relationship was dying, my home was burglarized and other small things added to my level of stress. On a whim I decided that it was once again time to cut my hair short in an effort to simplify things. While in the chair the stylist pointed out something that shocked and disturbed me – a bald spot. The stylist wanted me to see the spot and didn’t want me to think that she did it and she further explained that it was alopecia, “yep you can see it – that’s alopecia,” she exclaimed. I couldn’t believe it, there was a half dollar size bald spot in my head and I later discovered more hair loss at the base of my neckline. In my life, if I have been able to count on one thing it was my hair. I stood by it and it stood by me. If I wanted to cut it, it was cute, if I wanted to grow it long – it grew long and thick. My hair was so great that I became a hair model. I could do anything to it (except for bleach) and it would hold up and be strong. So when I was faced with my hair falling out of my head and I didn’t even notice it – I got scared.
On a trip home to Los Angeles, I also realized that I wasn’t alone. I ran into women who had no idea about my bout with alopecia that also expressed that they were so stressed out that they have or had hair loss. I’m no stranger to holistic healing and also know about stress and how it affects the body – so when I learned that I had alopecia I knew that it was stress induced. So I tried to take the steps in reducing my stress as well as giving my hair a break. The bald spot has since grown back and I am on the constant pursuit to have less stress and to stress less. I’m writing this article in conjunction with Healthy Locs in hopes that we can take hair loss as a sign to other issues that are affecting our bodies. Below are some tips and things that I did:
#1 Leave your hair alone…for some it will be harder than others…but really I had to stop touching my hair and the spot. I don’t really recommend braids cause they can pull the hair too but if you want just make sure that the braider doesn’t do more damage to your scalp by pulling too tight. Whatever it is to that doesn’t add stress to you and makes you feel comfortable. I wore wigs for a hot second.
#2 Make sure your on the up & up with your vitamins. I take vitamin E as well as Omega #3
#3 Reduce your stress level. I can’t tell you how to do this. I took a yoga class. The point is however to make a real effort to get the stress off of you… trust…if it’s making your hair fall out Goddess only knows what happening inside of your body.
#4 Get your joy back...whatever it is that gives you real joy – do it. For me it was my photography series Doc the Artist. Being around other artists who were doing their thing made me happy, and the accomplishment of every post made me feel like I made a step in the right direction, regardless on how not perfect it was, I am doing it.
If you have questions that you’d like to ask Brandi about her Alopecia experience you can email or reach out to her via her new site home: www.brandipettijohn.com
Also please don’t hesitate to share your Alopecia story with us by leaving a comment and letting us know what you did to cure your Alopecia.
So you’re loving your natural hair, but it could do well to choose the best essential natural hair care tools, especially those that have a little daily moisture and maintenance to keep it as fabulous as possible. Well consider our natural hair care essentials list the next time you head to the beauty supply store. Remember a small batch of products sure does go a long way. Check out our recommendations below and let us know what you think with a comment!
Scarf
We mention this time and again, but no natural hair goddess should rest her pretty little head without a silk or satin scarf/bonnet around it at night. Those blissful hours of slumber can wreak havoc on your tresses, leaving the friction between unprotected hair and your pillow to do serious damage over time. Avoid unnecessary breakage and beauty breakdowns, by tying things up! And if you’re styling hair for a daytime look, try a stocking cap on top of your scarf to keep it all in place.
Detangling Tools
Depending on your hair type, and when choosing the best natural hair care tools, opt for a brush or comb that will keep hair free of tangles, but will also be gentle to your crown. Boar bristle brushes, paddle brushes, and detangling combs are all popular choices. We are also loving the Knot Genie, which is gaining some serious popularity in the natural hair care world. But avoid choosing tools at random or ones that have knobs at the end, as these are only going to be hard on hair and create damage in the long run.
Spray Bottle
So we all have our favorite moisture methods. Whether you use Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Jamaican Black Castor Oil, Argan Oil, or all of these in conjunction with other hydrates, a great way to lessen your daily prep time is to create your own personalized hair care concoction in an inexpensive spray bottle. Fill it up about half way with touches of each nourishing formula, add a healthy dose of water and shake. Use it twice a day to feed hair and you’ll wonder why you ever labored for so long layering in your products. Find these natural hair care tools at your local beauty supply store for as low as a $1.
Heatless Styling
We warned naturalists about the perils of heated styling, but that doesn’t mean you’re without options. Opt to try pin-curling hair or using bubble wrap to create soft spiral curls (yes this actually works, check it out on YouTube). Both methods work beautifully and keep hair free of heat damage. Twist Outs, Braid Outs, Bantu Knots, Double Twists, and Box Braids all offer up different options that also keep hair protected as well as chicly styled.
Wrap and Mousse
To keep edges laid and slicked down, mousse and styling strips work great as natural hair care tools. They also eliminate the need for gels that can seriously damage hair. Many gels contain alcohol that can dry out your scalp, making hair weaker and prone to fallout. Instead, apply a little mousse to your edges and then tie a styling wrap or two around your head. You can apply this before you go to sleep so that’s it’s underneath your headscarf, or you can let it air dry before you head out. Either way, you avoid creating a gel addiction and still get the laid baby hairs you’re after. Try using Jane Carter’s Wrap & Roll.
When you choose the best natural hair products for locs, they should be quality enough to help you keep your hair at its healthy best. There are various products that can help you repair and maintain healthy hair.
Hair Care Products
African American hair has a different texture than other types of hair, and so, it needs the best natural hair products that are targeted toward its unique texture. African American hair tends to be brittle and dry, occasionally weak and very curly. If you use natural hair care products, your hair will grow more normally, and you can avoid some of the stresses that over-styling causes.
Hair care products that are formulated for African American hair should be used regularly, including taking time to shampoo and do a deep conditioning at least once a week. You should use a moisturizer such as a natural hair oil or leave in conditioner at least 3 times per week. Shampoos that you use should be made without any type of alcohol, because this can dry out your hair.
African American hair will benefit from moisturizing conditioners that do not contain sulphates. Find hair care products rich in protein to replace lost moisture and prevent the breakage of hair.
Shampoo
Natural shampoos and good nutrition will help to lead you to overall hair health. Shampoo can be a help or a hindrance to healthy African American hair. The wrong kind of shampoo can strip your hair of natural oils, which are replaced when you use a conditioner. The proper shampoo will add moisture to your hair just as well as a good conditioner will. Be sure that you always rinse well with water, as this will remove any remaining dirt or debris, before you use a conditioner.
To select the best natural hair products for locs, choose shampoo products that have organic and natural ingredients, and a minimum of artificial ingredients. In this way, you can maintain a healthy balance of natural and artificial oils in your hair, so that it remains – or becomes – bright, shiny and healthy.
Natural Hair Care
Healthy African American hair care is not just about what brand of shampoos and conditioners you might use. It also involves taking care of your mental and physical health. Having a positive attitude about your hair and eating healthy in addition to exercise helps hair grow healthy. Chemicals that you should avoid in shampoos and conditioners include sodium laurel sulfate, propylene glycol and any parabens. These chemicals may have harmful effects on your hair, and you’ll need to read labels closely to find natural hair care products with none of these ingredients in them.
Shampoos are designed to clean hair and conditioners to replace oils, so it is generally not a good idea to use all-in-one products. These products attempt to do both things at once, with the end effect of doing neither one well. Shampoos help to open your pores and clean built-up pollutants, dirt and oil. Conditioners close the follicles’ scales back down and fill the follicles with protection and clean moisture. You need to be sure to do both steps, regardless of the type of hair you have.
Locs are stylish on their own but for many people who wear them, searching for locs styles to refresh their look won’t hurt. Regardless if you had them for two decades or just two weeks ago, you have plenty of options when it comes to styling your locs. All you need is a little creativity to get started. Imagine how you would look or get some advice from loc experts. Be resourceful, experiment and have the confidence to wear them! Below are the 5 C’s to getting creative and inspired with your loc styles.
1. Curl – Curling instantly adds glamour to your locs. It gives your locs a fab look without much ado. After all, curling rods, soft curlers, etc., are often easy to use and inexpensive and if you need help, you can always check out video tutorials all over the web. As a matter of fact, many fabulous styles for locs make use of grandma’s good old curlers so if you want a fuss-free way to pretty locs, get those curlers working.
2. Cut – If they’ve always been long, cutting you hair short is the shortest route to a completely new look. However, consider one that frames your face nicely. For others, an afternoon with hair shears is no big deal but there are those who need to think things through before getting their locs chopped off. Whatever category you’re in, it helps to have an experienced stylist around to guide you in making a decision.
3. Clip – Use pieces that compliment your hair and outfit. Try hair accessories, put on a head wrap, wear a head band, earrings, dazzling beads etc. Clip whatever you have as long as they match your get up. In short, accessorize but learn how to mix and match. Accessories can greatly enhance your loc hairstyles but the trick is to not overdo it. Some pieces can help radiate your feminine appeal, give you classy look or show your fearless, fashionable side.
4. Color – A new shade can definitely perk things up in the mane department, dreadlocks or not, but again, find the hue that suits you. Remember that a shade that looks amazing on someone else may not yield the same result for you. Go to a reputable salon or a trusted colorist instead of going for a DIY as loc’d hair is more challenging to dye. If you just had your hair loc’d, wait for at least twelve weeks before coloring. In case you haven’t, it’s recommended to dye your hair first before locking them.
5. Change – Little changes like a new angle of your part or creating a part if you have none can make a huge difference. Play with your bangs, put your locs into a bun, create a Mohawk and if you are a bit more daring, you can even shave a side. As a matter of fact, various styles for locs are available especially to those who are not afraid to experiment. If you welcome changes, you will not find yourself lacking in options.
Many times when choosing a product for our natural hair, we’re taught to avoid harmful ingredients like mineral oils, parabens and sulfates. But how many of us really know what’s in our hair care products and what these bad ingredients do for our strands to actually classify them as “bad”?
Take a look at some of the most common ingredients used and you be the judge about what’s in your hair care products…
Hair Care Products Ingredient Handbook
Colorants n. any dye, pigment or substance which when added or applied to hair products is capable (alone or through reactions with other substances) of adding color.
The use of colorants can result in hair breakage, unexpected hair color results and temporary scalp irritation.
DEA, known as diethanolamine, n. is a common ingredient used as a wetting or lather agent in shampoos and cosmetics to confer a creamy texture and foaming action.
DEA by it lonesome is not harmful, but it can react with other product ingredients to form an extremely potent carcinogen called nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA). NDEA is readily absorbed through the skin and has been linked with esophagus, liver, bladder and stomach cancers.
Gluten n.(from Latin gluten, “glue”) a protein composite found in foods processed from wheat and related grain species, including barley and rye.
Celiac disease causes a person to have an allergic reaction to gluten, so if you have Celiac disease gluten should be avoided. Gluten grain ingredients have been known to be healthy for the hair, and therefore are used frequently and liberally in shampoos and conditioners. Gluten also appears in hair spray, mousse and other styling products, since its “glue” properties help hold your hair in place.
Mineral Oil n. a common colorless, odorless ingredient in anything used as a lubricant, moisturizer, or laxative. And may be listed under different names, including Petrolatum or Paraffin.
When used in hair care products mineral oil acts as a protective barrier on the hair shaft which has it’s advantages and disadvantages. The advantage being that it aids in moisture retention because the oil helps to seal moisture into the hair cuticle. It also minimizes frizz by preventing the penetration of moisture into the hair in humid conditions. However, some argue that mineral oil does the exact opposite; it actually prevents moisture and causes product buildup.
PABA, known as Para-aminobenzoic acid, n. can be natural or synthetic and is found in the Vitamin B complex. Used to protect cosmetics and personal care products from deterioration by absorbing UV rays.
It’s been said that PABA can help stimulate hair growth and to turn gray hair back to its natural color. But, it has not had great success in such uses. Although, largely nontoxic, high doses of PABA may cause nausea, vomiting and possibly liver damage. But this is very unlikely in regards to using hair care products.
Parabens n. a group of compounds used as preservatives in pharmaceutical, cosmetics, and in the food industry.
Parabens are commonly found in shampoos and commercial cosmetics, and have become extremely controversial because they have been found in breast cancer tumors. Parabens have also displayed the ability to mimic estrogen, creating the concern that they may be a factor in the increasing prevalence of early puberty in girls.
Paraffin n. ( Liquid paraffin, or Mineral oil), is transparent, odorless, colorless, waterproof and consists of saturated hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum. Commonly used in cosmetics and hair care products.
Using hair products that contain paraffin has the same advantages and disadvantages as using ones with mineral oil (as they are the same thing). Furthermore, leaving paraffin oil on the skin or scalp for long periods of time may lead to skin irritation and/or dermatitis.
Petroleum n. is a semi-solid substance that is composed of non-polar, water-repelling hydrocarbons. It is used widely in the cosmetics industry because it is cheaper to use as a filler ingredient than other oils.
Petroleum (often referred to as hair grease) can be a great lubricant and sealant for moisturizing and sealing the hair shaft. But, when used directly on the scalp, petroleum works against effective hair growth by clogging the hair follicles causing dandruff and product build-up.
Phthalates n. are mainly used as plasticizers; substances added to plastics to increase their flexibility, transparency, durability, and longevity. They are used primarily to soften.
Phthalates are used in hair sprays, shampoos and hair gels to help avoid stiffness by allowing them to form a flexible film on the hair for more staying power. Too much phthalates can be absorbed through the skin or inhaled causing damage to the kidneys, liver, reproductive systems and lungs. Sadly we are exposed to phthalates on a daily basis because they are used in a large variety of commercial products.
Propylene Glycol n. a liquid alcohol that is used as a solvent, in antifreeze, and as a humectant in cosmetics and hair care items including shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in styling products.
Humectants like Propylene Glycol are often used as an additive to help decrease the time it takes for hair to dry. Even though PG isn’t necessarily bad for your hair it does contain alcohol which can create dry, frizzy hair.
Silicones n. are inert, synthetic compounds with a variety of forms and uses. Such compounds are typically resistant to chemical attack and insensitive to temperature changes, and are used to make rubber, plastics, polishes, and lubricants.
Silicones are found in many hair gel products, shampoos and conditioners. They coat the hair shaft and work great at conditioning our tresses by providing manageability, softness, shine, and less frizz. But if used too much silicones can cause product build-up on the hair and scalp.
Sulfates n. (commonly referred to as Sodium Laureth Sulfate , Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Lareth Sulfate) is the detergent that produces lather in hair products, like shampoo. Sulfate shampoos remove natural oils, dirt, and residue from the hair.
If you prefer a hair cleanser with little to no suds then you should avoid sulfates in all products. Sulfates can strip hair color as well as the natural oils needed for healthy hair growth. That is why most people prefer sulfate-free hair products.
With this new information on what’s really in your hair care products, please continue to educate yourself and do what’s best for you and your hair.
This particular article, The Compound Effect in Natural Hair Care comes from an article that I cam across a long while back. The author of the article speaks about her realization of how one should really care for their hair in regimen, not from hair care sources – but a single book that has nothing to do with hair!
Read on to learn what she’d found:
The Compound Effect in Healthy Hair CareAvoiding the Fluff and Sticking to Key Healthy Hair Principles
Most writers will tell you that they are also avid readers. I am no exception to the rule. Interestingly, one book that has informed my understanding of hair care is not really a hair care book at all. It’s a little book called, The Compound Effect by Darren Hardy.
In the book, Hardy states that, “Success is not doing 5,000 things really well. Success is doing a half dozen things really well— 5,000 times.” And it’s true. When I heard this, it immediately made me think of the very well intentioned but over the top, bank-breaking hair care regimens and routines I’ve seen over the years. We are doing too much, and we get to this point because we really don’t know or want to accept the basics of healthy hair care. Let’s face it— the basics are boring. Cleanse, condition, moisturize and keep my hands out of my hair can’t be all, right?
So what happens? We indulge in distractions. We build unnecessary complication into our regimens. We end up following 5 different hair care gurus’ regimens hoping that something (or some magical new combination of things) will be “the thing” or “the product” that allows us to break from the pack. We’ll have 4 different moisturizers and more rare, exotic oils than BP and Exxon combined. (Is Kentucky Bluegrass Oil really better than Polynesian Fairy Island Oil or does Bohemian Muskrat oil top them all?)
We’ll have enough vitamins and supplements to make GNC and the FDA nervous. We’ll deep condition for 2 days straight, rinse, repeat, try a new honey-avocado pre-shampoo growth mixture, apply a clay mask, work in some henna and do 3 different length checks in a span of 72 hours all because someone in a book, behind a screen or behind a chair told us to. Perhaps I’m exaggerating here, but you get the point. It is all fluff. We’re “maximizing the possibilities” and that makes us feel good. But does your hair really need 4 different oils in your oil mix to make your hair softer?
No one ever really had healthy, vibrant hair before the Internet, right?
We might see some progress doing these 5,000 hair care must-dos and using the 5,000 more product must-haves, but the problem with this method of regimen building is that it is unsustainable long term. In an effort to do 5,000 things right, we don’t realize that it’s really the handful of basic things done well every day that carry the regimen forward—not the fluff and complication we add in. Doing a few basic things simply and repeatedly IS sustainable, and that’s how we achieve success in hair care.
So, what are the basics you should do simply and really well? Cleansing No rocket science here. Regular cleansing is essential for hair and scalp hydration. Add additional moisture to this step by using a sulfate-free cleanser or light conditioner. Reduce unnecessary manipulation to your tresses by managing your hair in sections throughout the process. Whether to pre-shampoo with oil or conditioner is up to you— but it is not a requirement for healthy hair. Conditioning Conditioning follows naturally after cleansing. Never mind the 20 different ways to deep condition your hair—just keep it simple. Take a moisturizing conditioner product of your choice and leave it on your hair until the desired softness is achieved. The end. Adding oils, other conditioners, honey and other extras we tend to want to mix in our conditioners—is purely optional. Your hair will still thrive without the mixology. The key is to simply be consistent with whatever you’ve chosen to do. If you’ve decided to condition weekly— make sure it happens every week. Keep your focus and momentum. Moisturizing Like conditioning, your individual product choices and time frame for conditioning are dependent on your own head of hair. The key is to simply be sure that your product is a hydrating product and that you remain consistent with its application to keep your balance in check. Moisturizing and sealing go hand in hand—so an effective moisturizing routine will always have an oil or butter to seal the hair.
Low Manipulation I talk at length about keeping the manipulation down as much as possible. Simply reducing your contact with your hair overall, done many, many times will improve the health of your hair. I subscribe to a holistic interpretation of protective styling where the entire spirit of the regimen is protective.
Whether it’s improving hair health, losing weight, or saving money— the process is simple. You must identify the handful of basic things that matter and execute them flawlessly many, many times. I once tweeted that other people’s regimens should be templates, not mandates for your hair care, and it’s true. Start with the basics, execute them well, and strive to make them habits without the fluff.
What are the primary steps in your natural hair care regimen?
Many of us know what an elastic band is and how it works. But you also know that if there is too much tension given to the band, causing the band to lose its shape and power – it’ll do what exactly…. POP! This is why your black hair needs elasticity.
Here’s an article that will help put things into perspective:
So why does hair elasticity matter anyway? Easy. So your strands don’t break. That’s why sistas who want to grow out their tresses or maintain certain voluminous styles must learn how to cultivate hair that snaps back without popping when stretched. CurlyNikki.com lists several things you should consider to better your understanding of what elasticity means and how it’s affected by your hair’s inner structure.
How much elasticity does your hair have? Simply put, this is a measure of how much your strands can stretch and then return to their pre-stretched size. To check how elastic your strands are, wet your hair and select several from four separate areas of your head. Next, stretch each strand one at a time. If your four strands stretch and return to their original length when released, then your hair has excellent elasticity. If your strands break or don’t return to their former shape, it’s likely your hair is not very elastic. But don’t start fretting yet—a little more knowledge can help build your hair’s resilience, so keep reading!
How thick are your strands? One major factor that influences hair’s elasticity is the diameter of its strands—fine strands are weaker than thick strands, which can withstand more force. Usually, African-American hair has a smaller diameter compared with Caucasian hair. Asian hair usually has the thickest diameter. Unlike African-American hair, that means Asian hair is very elastic and can take styling wear and tear.
Why black tresses must be kept hydrated. The part of each strand that contributes most to elasticity is the interior hair shaft, or cortex. This part of the hair is composed of a complex structure of keratin protein (called fibrils) embedded within a core or matrix of high water content. Extensive bonding between water molecules and keratin protein in the hair’s cortex makes strands more elastic. If hair gets too dry, then the bonding can’t take place. The result? Less elasticity and more breakage-prone hair.
Why you must maintain your hair’s protein structure. Besides hydration, the other major step that making strands elastic is avoiding degradation of the hair’s internal protein structure. Degradation of the internal protein structure can happen when the outside cuticle layer of your hair is broken. To limit this kind of damage, have frequent trims, avoid high temperature treatments and handle the hair gently. What’s more, use protein treatments and protein-containing conditioners to restore protein to damaged hair. One warning, though: These treatments are temporary, and overuse can contribute to brittle hair.
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